The Two Month Mark

It has now been two months since I arrived in Estonia. Well okay, two months and two days, but who’s counting. I can’t believe it. Time seems to move so quickly here. My roommate and I have this recurring conversation every few days it goes something like this:

Hende: “Is today the 25th?”
Me: “No, it’s the 27th. Woah.”
Hende: “I can’t believe it’s the weekend again.”
Me: “I know, wasn’t it JUST the weekend?!”
Hende: “Oh here we go having this conversation again…”
Me: “Hende! It’s almost November.”
Hende: “And then it’ll be Decemeber, and then Christmas, and then I’ll be back in Finland.”
Me: “How is this possible, what is happening to our time in Estonia?!”

Anyway, you get the idea. I probably shouldn’t think about it so much. I think we feel this way because we are both so busy, but we are busy with really interesting and new things. I certainly haven’t felt bored in quite some time. Let me tell about some of the exciting things I have been up to.

I love living in Viljandi. It is small, cute, and charming, and there is always some cool cultural event going on. For instance, every month (I think) there is a Tantsumaja (Dance House) at the Ait. People come together to dance to live folk music. It seems like knowing the different folk dances is a requirement here. It is really cool to see all types of people, young and old moving their feet to this kind of music. If I went to a similar event in the States (and I have done so occasionally) I would probably be the only “young person” there. I also love that almost any event with music is a good enough reason to dance. They start off by teaching a dance and talking through some things, then later in the night they just play music and everyone dances freely. If you know me at all, then you know that I am one of the least coordinated people on the face of the planet. Graceful is definitely not my middle name. I frequently trip over my own toes, walk into walls, and fall over when simply standing in one place. Needless to say, I am not the best dancer, but I do enjoy it. I am very grateful for the patience of the people who dance with me at these events (especially my friend Liisa who says there is hope yet for me). They continue to drag me around the floor, help me learn these dances, and don’t seem to be offended when I bump into people.

Photo by: Pärimusmuusika Ait

Let’s see, what else have I been up to…? One weekend I took a trip to Riga, Latvia and spent some time with my “Fulbright family”. I love that I can just go to another country for the weekend; it’s a concept that still blows my mind a little. Anyway, in Latvia this year there are four Fulbright English Teaching Assistantship (ETA) and Research grant recipients. Bart, the other Estonian Fulbrighter and I, got to know them back in the States during our orientation in DC. We decided then that we would try to get together during our Fulbright year and do fun things or travel. The six of us had a fun weekend walking around Riga, exploring the central market, grabbing a few drinks at the Folk Pub, and visiting the Open-Air Museum. It rained all weekend so I didn’t get to walk around the city quite as much as I would have liked, but that just means I have to go back! It was really great to spend time with the Latvian Fulbrighters and get to know them better. I can’t wait for them to come visit Estonia!

The handmade mug I got at the Open-Air Museum

Photo by: my friend Dan

The following weekend three American girls, who I met during orientation in Tartu, came to visit me in Viljandi. It was fun to show them around. After I picked them up at the bus station and we got a bite to eat, we walked around the castle ruins (of course). Then we went up into the Old Water Tower and looked out over Viljandi. I am glad we did because I think it is now closed because tourist season is over. There may not be a whole lot to see in Viljandi (although I have still yet to go to the Viljandi Museum or the Kondase Keskus art museum…gasp), but it was nice to just walk around and talk. I think my friends appreciated the change of scenery.

The next weekend Bart and I went on a trip with the US Embassy to a the Lindi Nature Reserve in Pärnu County. I took a bus to Pärnu and met the rest of the group who had driven from Tallinn together. From the bus station we headed to the bog. We strapped on our bog shoes and then took off to explore one of Estonia’s beautiful natural landscapes. It was fun to feel the spongey ground bounce beneath us. I only fell once…because I decided it would be a good idea to skip in bog shoes. We walked through a little forest island where our guide showed us how to easily start a fire and mentioned some survival skills. At the end of our walk through the bog we all sat together in this little wooden hut and enjoyed a hot meal that our guide prepared for us. It was really tasty and much appreciated after our long walk.

Photo by: my friend Bart

From the embassy newsletter, “The Medieval Times”

When our time at the bog was over instead of heading back to Viljandi like I had planned, I decided to head back to spend the night in Tallinn. That night Bart and I met up with my Estonian teacher for dinner and then did a little bar-hopping. It was a lot of fun and we met two of my teacher’s friends who were really funny. I laughed harder than I have in a long time. They work at a radio station in Tallinn and asked me to perform at a charity show they put on. Unfortunately I had a conflict for this particular event, but I hope that in the future I can get my band to go to Tallinn and play with me. The next morning Bart had plans to go to Tartu, so again I tagged along. We spent the day with the Tuula, the girl I had stayed with when I was in Tartu for orientation. By the end of the weekend I had pretty much made a circle around the country.

During my two months in Estonia I have learned to say “yes” more and to be comfortable with the unexpected. I don’t always know what my plans are or where I am supposed to be, but when I just go with the flow, I end up having these awesome experiences. I can’t wait to see where the next two months bring me!

Teadmiste Päev (Day of Knowledge)

Okay, so technically Teadmiste Päev (the Estonian holiday for the first day of school) was yesterday, September 1st, but because yesterday was a Sunday the school year started today. I have been waiting for this day for a very long time. I am finally a student at the Viljandi Culture Academy!

Today was definitely the most unique first day of school I have ever had. Actually there aren’t any classes this week at all. After waking up early for breakfast at the guest house and then having a lazy morning in my room I ventured off to find the coffee place I had heard about. It’s called “Rohelise Maja” and when I was in DC for my Fulbright orientation a returning Fulbright Scholar told me it had the best coffee in Viljandi. In fact he gave me his stamp card that already had two stamps on it! Well, now it has three. I got a latte and had their tomato, carrot, and lentil soup. It was very good. I finished up my little lunch just in time to head to the Folk Music Center (Pärimusmuusika Ait) for the opening ceremony.

I took my seat in the hall and looked around while friends greeted each other and chatted. Then there was what sounded like a dull gong and I was amazed at how quickly everyone quieted down. I am sure if the hall was full of Americans it would have taken much longer for people to finish their conversations and realize the ceremony was about to begin. Then everyone stood up, so I did too. Someone started singing and everyone joined in. It was the Estonian National Anthem (Eesti Hümn) and it was beautiful. Everyone was so together and Estonians really do have beautiful voices. Hearing it made me light up. After the anthem was over someone in the audience started a call and response song similar to ones I have heard over the past year. Although I had no idea what was being sung, I joined in when I could.

At this point we all sat down and then the talking began. Several people gave little speeches and I think some sort of award was presented to someone, but I really couldn’t tell you. Honestly, I caught a few words here and there, but for the most part I had no idea what was going on. I clapped when everyone else did and smiled when the room laughed at a joke I didn’t understand. In between some of the talking a guitarist and vocalist got up and sang a song in English. I enjoyed it very much and remember thinking, “Now this is a language I can understand” (music I mean…not the English). These two also performed at the end of the ceremony, but this time in Estonian.

When the people who I assume were important in someway were done with their welcome speeches they started to call groups of students up to the stage. When this happened I started to get nervous. I turned to the woman sitting next to me and asked if they were calling new students by department. We had a difficult time understanding each other, but after a while she confirmed that was what was happening. I told her I was a music student and asked if I should go up as well. When they called pärimusmuusika I looked at her and she nodded. So I walked up and joined five or six other students on the stage. Each name was called and they went to shake hands and receive a welcome bag. As each name was called I hoped mine would be next. They didn’t call my name and I was left standing there awkwardly, feeling under-dressed, wishing I had stayed in my seat, and feeling the eyes of a room full of people wondering who I was. Ultimately I walked back to me seat bag-less and without a handshake. My tutor, Kaisa, later made me feel better saying that someone is left standing awkwardly on the stage almost every year.

When the ceremony concluded I went and stood in the hallway for a bit not knowing what to do. Then I decided to go talk to someone who looked like they might be some sort of authority figure. She was a teacher of native crafts and graciously called someone to find out what to do with me. I then hopped in her car and she drove me to the music building, where she walked me in and handed me off to some people there. After some quick introductions they told me to come back later for my scheduled meeting with the head of the music department. I had just enough time to walk back to the guest house, dig out my rain jacket from my suitcase, and then head back.

After a few more awkward interactions I was very happy to meet the person that was going to help me pick classes. Basically I am going to take a bunch of practical classes because lectures would be super challenging and frustrating for me. There are so many great classes that are perfect for my interest in ethnomusicology that I would not be able to take in the States, but maybe I can try to take one or two in the spring when my language skills have improved. I also finally found out who my fiddle teacher will be. I am really excited because it turns out I will be studying with Maarja Nuut, the same woman who was one of the first Estonian musicians I discovered over a year ago during my many YouTube searches for Estonian fiddle music. I have not met her yet, but I think I will like her. It is still a little surreal that because Viljandi, and all of Estonia, is so small I will probably end up meeting many of the people I have heard about and listened to for the past year.

While my classes may change if any scheduling problems arrive, let me give you a quick list of the classes I will be taking: fiddle lesson, piano, kannel (see Estonian Traditional Music Center), theory, transcribing, practical harmony, voice training, improvisation, rhythmics…in addition I will be part of two separate bands. There is also a “class” which involves going to some woman’s house in the countryside for three days and exploring the local culture. Now if that isn’t hands-on education and real-life application I don’t know what is.

Here are some pictures I took yesterday when I had nothing better to do than walk around and get lost…

The balcony of my room at the guest house

View from the balcony

Little waterfall in the park between the guest house and school

Lake Viljandi

Viljandi Castle Ruins

Viljandi Suspension Bridge

Folk Music Center

Estonian swing

The famous Viljandi strawberries!

From Town Hall Square in Old Town Tallinn

I am sitting in Town Hall Square in Old Town Tallinn having just finished my coffee. I figure I should write about my journey to Estonia now before my thoughts on the experience are replaced by new experiences in Tallinn.

The plane ride was definitely the longest I have ever been on. I flew LOT Polish Airlines, which means I have heard more Polish in the last two days than in my entire life. On the plane I sat next to two nice women, one of whom was from the Ukraine and spoke a little English. The other did not, but we exchanged lots of smiles and hand gestures during our eight hours together. In fact when we were leaving she thanked me for helping her get her bags from the overhead compartment and grabbed my hand to pull me down for a kiss.

In front of each seat was a touch screen that allowed you to track the flight, watch movies, listen to music, play games, etc. As much as I tried to help the woman sitting next to me, the system seemed very perplexing to her.

On the plane we were given two nice meals and as far as airplane food goes, I am not complaining. I tried to sleep on the plane, knowing that it would be day time when I arrived, but despite my exhaustion, sleep was just not in the cards.

When I got to the airport in Warsaw I had to go through the passport check and security. I had to wait a little bit and my backpack had to be double checked after taking out more of my electronics, but all-in-all it was pretty simple.

After using the bathroom and buying a Polish candy bar and bottle of water I headed to the small terminal at the very back of the airport. You have no idea how happy I was to hear people speaking Estonian!

This second flight was rather short and I arrived at the airport with no problems. It is the smallest, quietest airport I have ever been in. I waited at what appeared to be the only baggage claim conveyor belt and retrieved my luggage. Just as I was wondering why I didn’t have to go through customs yet, an Estonian man pulled me aside. I was the only person going through customs and it was very quick. He checked my passport, put my luggage through the machine, asked me why I was here, and then sent me on my way. Definitely much simpler than going through customs in Jamaica!

Taking a taxi was super simple too. I checked into my hotel and then found a place to eat thanks to the suggestion of the hotel receptionist. Now after a goodnight’s sleep, an excellent breakfast, and a quick walk through Old Town, I am sitting people-watching and, I admit, eavesdropping a bit on the English-speaking tourists sitting at the next table. I can’t wait to meet up with my teacher from this summer and get shown around by a real Estonian. The later today I will be off to meet people at the US Embassy.

Catching Trade Winds

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain

I am EXHAUSTED! Today was my travel day to Pittsburgh. I didn’t sleep at all last night and then got to Bradley International Airport for my 6 AM flight. I had a short layover at Dulles and then arrived in Pittsburgh. (Both planes were those little tiny ones that you have to walk outside to get on. I think this was also my first time on a propeller plane). Everything went smoothly for the most part. As I was walking up to baggage claim my bag was coming out right in front of me. Then I headed to the shuttle that would take me to the University. I found it without a problem and only had to wait a couple of minutes for the next shuttle. The driver dropped me off at Panther Central where I checked in and got my student ID.

Now here’s the part of my trip that was a bit of a challenge. I had to walk from where I checked in to Pennsylvania Hall where I am living. It’s not a long walk, but it seemed like it took an eternity. Let me back up a little. I am at last minute packer. Since I was flying I had a lot off stuff to fit into one suitcase. So yesterday my mom and I went out and bought the biggest suitcase I could find. At 2 AM when I had finally finished packing, I was lying in bed worry that my bag would not meet the 50 pound weight limit. So I went through it again pulling things out and hoping it wouldn’t be too heavy. Alas, when we got to the airport my bag was about 7 pounds over. I did not want to be that person franticly going through their luggage while holding up the line. I was that person. Because, you see, I also did not want to pay $100 for 7 pounds. I stuffed my hairdryer and my laptop charger into my already loaded backpack and sent my mom back with my shampoo and some clothes. In the end my bag was 50.5 pounds. I wish I were a light packer. I like the concept, it just never seems to work out that way.

Anyway, after figuring out where my dorm was I started to drag my 50 pound suitcase, backpack, and violin through Oakland and up the mammoth hill to my dorm. I don’t know what was worse the hills, the multiple flights of stairs, or the heat. I think I’m going to be sore tomorrow, but I made it! My calf muscle are going to be huge after six weeks of walking up this hill.

Alrighty, enough complaining. I am so excited to be living in Pittsburgh! I have never spent a considerable amount of time in a city and I think now is the perfect time. I can’t wait to start my Estonian class tomorrow too! I found out this week that I am going to take classes in Viljandi after all (I will give more details soon). Which means I really have to work hard since I will be studying at the graduate level in Estonian. Tomorrow morning starts off with orientation for the Summer Language Institute. I had my two weeks sitting at home after graduation now it’s time to start doing and start living. No regrets!

Graduation

Photo by: Peggy Stewart

It’s been a very busy week. Part of receiving a Fulbright Scholarship is first receiving a Bachelor’s degree. Well I did that. Sunday was graduation. It was a little surreal to be honest. And hot. And long. I didn’t take any pictures of my own at the ceremony, but I was part of the most important picture: the Honors Program jumping picture. It’s become something of a tradition for all the graduates of the honors program to take a picture with Dr. Kukk midair. I’ve been joking that it is the most important part of being in the honors program (…okay I’m not really joking, I’m pretty serious). This was a big deal for me because I wasn’t always expecting that I would graduate in the honors program. Unfortunately I never was really able to complete all the requirements, but Dr. Kukk pulled some strings and made it happen. It was something that I think was very important to my dad. He would have been really happy about it. I keep remembering the reaction he had when I told him I would be graduating with honors (Magna Cum Laude because of my GPA). I immediately knew that he had missed understood me and thought I was taking about the Honors Program. “Yes!” he said enthusiastically as he clapped his hands with a huge smile on his face. If only I could have taken a picture of that moment. If you know my dad you know how difficult it was to get a picture of him with a real smile.

So graduation is over and I finished up my last few days of student teaching. Now I’m home and the realization that I will be living in a foreign country next year is starting to sink in. I am very excited, but also scared and nervous. I am going somewhere I have never been and where I do not know a single person. I am also starting to realize everything I have to do to get ready for my trip. Last night I started a binder with information I think I should read. Dad would be proud; he had binders for everything…and he saved EVERYTHING. My Fulbright binder is already filled, with emails about “Next Steps” and the Fulbright handbook and suggestions about living in Estonia. I’ve got a lot of planning ahead of me. I did a lot of planning before when I was applying for the Fulbright, but know it is no longer hypothetical.

The first thing I took care of today was having a physical and getting my nine page medical form filled out. As far as I know I don’t need any special vaccines for Estonia, but I was due for another Tetanus shot. I’ll put that form in the mail tomorrow.

I still don’t know a lot of specifics about my grant. I am supposed to receive a write up of my actual grant by the end of May or early June. I think that will clarify a lot of questions I have. The other part is on me though. I have to go back and check on the connections I made and start pinning down exactly what I will be doing when I get there. I got an email this week saying that my main contact, Miss Sofia Joons, who I was expecting to be my mentor, has moved to Sweden. She was going to be my fiddle teacher and was also my contact at the Estonian Traditional Music Center. As of right now the music department at the Viljandi Culture Academy is trying to see if there is another teacher who would be willing to work with me. It feels like I kind of need to start from scratch with my plans, but I am sure it will all work out for the best.

I am also getting ready for my language program in Pittsburgh. I bought my plane ticket and I leave June 2nd, bright and early. My textbook book came in the mail. I can’t wait to start learning the language. Did I mention that there is only one other student in my class? Talk about a good student-teacher ratio! It will be like private tutoring. I’m going to work really hard so I can learn as much as possible before leaving for Estonia. It is, however, I comfort that most Estonians also speak English. It will be really fun living in a city for six weeks. I’ll share my experiences there as well. Any one know of any good restaurants I have to check out in Pittsburgh?

Well that’s all for now. If you are still reading, I’m impressed. I will try to make these posts sound less like a journal entry in the future.